There are many new Italian places popping up around Singapore.  The latest being Locanda, a lively casual concept by 1-Michelin-starred Buona Terra.  It has opened its doors along Rowell Road and has its name taken from the Italian word “inn”.  Indeed, the interior has charms with home-like warmth and the staff exudes inviting Italian hospitality. 

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Hailing from Brescia in Lombardy, Chef Denis Lucchi leads an experienced team to serve authentic Italian dishes each crafted to deliver hearty flavours and served in generous portions. 
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We started off our meal with Locanda’s soft roll with eggplant and tomato dip ($8).  Buttery soft, the fluffy roll reminded us a little of Binary’s version.  Great to have it warm and goes well with the oven baked eggplant and sun-dried tomato spreads. 
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The Gnocchi Fritto with cold cuts ($15 per 50g) is a good choice for a traditional Italian appetiser.  Gnocco fritto – a crisp, lard-infused Italian bread is paired with an assortment of cold cuts, from delicate prosciutto to robust salami. 
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Wrap a piece of cold cut around the gnocco fritto and try to have it whilst the gnocco fritto is warm.
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Don’t miss out on the Brusacaccia at Locanda.  We tried two different flavours and the focaccia topped with lard, toasted hazelnuts from Piedmont, truffle-infused honey, fresh black truffle slices and Casera cheese stood out for us. 
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The focaccia is made with stone-milled Italian wheat and slow-cooked red Tropea onions. The variant featuring smoked Artigiana scamorza, black pepper and grilled zucchini is veggie-friendly, yet not missing out on the flavours.  There is smokiness in the grilled zucchini and the Artigiana scamorza is a more intense version of mozzarella, which lends some savouriness to the dish. 
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Other meaty appetisers include the Veal Eye Round ($24).  It is cooked sous-vide to tenderness, then lightly seared and accompanied by a tomato tuna sauce and caper berries.  Give the dish a good mix before digging into it because each component is supposed to play its part.
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I liked the seafood-forward appetisers and would recommend them to those who love seafood like I do.  The yellowtail ($28) is fillet, sliced and dressed with lemon dressing and sea salt.  Nothing too complicated, but this brings out the freshness of the yellowtail.  Each fish slice is topped with charred orange segments and finished with bronze fennel and a drizzle of dill oil. 
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For a more complex seafood dish, the Deep Fried Marinated Sardine ($22) showcases sardines that are deboned, coated with flour and deep fried.  They are then marinated in a mix of vinegar, braised onions, raisins and pine nuts before serving atop deep fried polenta.  Sweet, savoury, sour, crispy, crunchy, soft, juicy – all check. 
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Onto the pastas, something I looked forward to prior to my visit at Locanda, I found all of them well-executed.  Starting with the Pappardelle Ragu Genovese with Mixed Mushrooms ($24) – slow-braised Australian beef is combined with sautéed mushrooms to form a robust ragu which coats the fresh pappardelle.  My friends enjoyed this pasta and commented on the texture of the pappardelle as it was indeed on point. 
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My pick of pasta if I’m there in a larger group would be the Spaghetti ai Frutti di Mare ($118) where a generous portion of pasta is tossed in a vibrant seafood tomato sauce with adorned sautéed shellfish.  Seafood lovers will surely be impressed with this.  I also slurped up the remaining seafood stock (although the health-conscious in me cautioned on the cholesterol). It’s ok, the cholesterol concerns can come later, can’t waste the goodness.
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Beyond the pasta offerings, Locanda also serves up main course items.  We were recommended the Secreto Iberico Pork ($39) which comprises marinated and grilled Spanish iberico pork, tender braised endives and subtle apple sauce. 
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Alternatively, the Hanging Tender ($42) has succulent beef hanger slices accompanied by a rucola salad dressed with vinegar, salt, oil and finished with beef jus and parmesan shavings. 
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To conclude our meal, we had their house-made Gelato and Sorbetti ($9) and Sicilian Cannoli ($15).  The gelato and sorbet flavours rotate seasonally, and I chose the pistachio and pear.  Both were on the slightly sweeter side, but I didn’t mind a sweet finish to the meal.
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The Sicilian Cannoli on the other hand is a fried tubular pastry shell filled with Artigiana ricotta, chocolate and candied citruses, with the ends rolled in ground pistachio to finish. 

Locando is the place to visit with larger groups, with their sharing dishes and communal spaces.  However, it can also be a place for intimate dining.  To try more dishes in a smaller group, Locanda has a sharing menu ($78 per person, minimum 2) or a weekend brunch sharing menu ($78 per person, minimum 2).   Wine options are aplenty at Locanda too, with a predominantly Italian selection.  

Budget: $40 – $70

  • Locanda

  • Phone
    +65 9619 2691
  • Address
    109 Rowell Rd, Singapore 208033
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