Walking into Gilmore & Damian D’Silva, I felt a quiet sense of occasion. It may be a new restaurant, but the space carries a weight of history that you can feel as you move through the former Supreme Court wing. Knowing that Chef Damian’s grandfather once lived and cooked in this building adds a layer of intimacy that you rarely get in a dining room this polished. It is not nostalgia for its own sake. It feels more like an anchor, a way of grounding the food in lived experience.

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We started with the Teochew ngoh hiang. It arrived simply, without fuss, and the first bite reminded me why so many people trust Chef Damian with heritage flavours. It was clean and well seasoned, the crispness giving way to a warm spiced filling. The chuka chilli added a small spark of brightness, while the sweet sauce kept everything in balance.
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The chicken soup in a coconut husk was the dish I was most curious about. At first sip, it was gentle. The herbs did not shout and the chicken carried a natural sweetness from the coconut water.
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There was a quiet depth to it, the kind you notice more with each spoonful. The housemade chilli sauce on the side gave the option of contrast without disturbing the broth’s clarity. It felt like something made with real care rather than technique alone.
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Cowdang, a stew of prawns in coconut broth, leaned into a softer, rounder flavour. The prawns were cooked just right and the broth had an easy warmth that lingered in a pleasant way.
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The pesce assa, wrapped in banana leaf and grilled with sambal, was one of the more assertive plates. The seerfish held up well to the sambal, which had a steady burn that grew slowly. It was satisfying without feeling heavy.
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Then came the Christmas debal. This is a dish with long roots, and it showed. The curry was robust but not distracting, with smoked ham, bacon bones, roast pork and chicken all contributing different textures and tones. The achar brought a needed sharpness and the baguette was ideal for catching the last bits of sauce. It was the heartiest dish of the night and the one that lingered in conversation afterward.
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Dessert moved into gentler tones. The sugee cake was familiar and comforting, with a toasted nuttiness and a soft crumb touched lightly with brandy. The chantilly on the side was restrained and allowed the cake to stand on its own.
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The assortment of Singapore heritage kueh rounded out the meal with small, satisfying bites. Each had its own quiet personality and they made a fitting closing chapter.  I especially love the Kueh Ku (fried ang ku kueh) – please Chef will you consider selling this ala carte? It is served crispy on the outside, warm and with sweet savoury notes.  

What stayed with me most was not one single dish but the way the whole meal felt guided by memory rather than nostalgia. The restaurant presents itself with refinement, yet the cooking is grounded and personal. You sense the influence of Pop not in the storytelling alone but in the spirit of the food. Nothing felt rushed or embellished.

Budget: $35 to $50 per person

  • Gilmore & Damian D’Silva

  • Phone
    +65 97100237
  • Address
    1 St Andrew’s Rd, #01-02/03 National Gallery, Singapore 178957
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